London’s Victoria and Albert Museum spotlights the work of a designer who defined 1960s British high street fashion and beyond in its Mary Quant exhibition, on display through February 2020.
Most commonly known for her clothing brand in the 1960s, British designer Mary Quant turned high fashion on its head, introducing vibrant affordable lines for a generation of young women.
White, orange and red color-blocked walls create a bold aesthetic accenting glass cases of Quant’s designs. The mix of decade-appropriate hairstyles on the mannequins are yet another detail in a maze of Swinging Sixties Easter eggs.
Though many visitors were more seasoned — perhaps once firsthand consumers of the designer’s work — the lively nature of the exhibition and designs that have found their way back into the closets of teens are sure to connect with younger audiences as well.
Captions chronicle her journey from her first Bazaar store in Chelsea to an international empire, evidencing the concept that Mary Quant was no average designer. From A-line and shift dresses to androgynous clothing, her collections blossomed into the signature looks of the 1960s.
Clothing alone does not form the exhibition. Accessories and makeup from her collections as well as photos and videos augment the dynamic display. The videos give an especially intimate look into Quant’s inspiration not only for her designs but the direction in which she took her empire, moving on to mass produce her clothing for women worldwide.
It’s only fitting that the iconic miniskirt is featured front and center above the daisy steps to the second floor. The trend began as teen patrons, the original Chelsea girls, requested shorter skirts. She took that request and ran with it, raising hemlines everywhere in a variety of colors and fabrics.
This 1966 wool-jersey minidress with a faux pocket and star accent once worn by Quant herself epitomizes her style: it’s simple and timely, but with a flair. The short and straight fit of the dress aligns beautifully with clothing of the time.
Often inspired by British tradesmen’s work clothing, Quant created this 1961 cotton butcher-stripe dress. The garment features fun orange trim and buttons in the unpredictable Mary Quant style. It exemplifies the spirit of her desire to make fashion more accessible, taking her patrons beyond the typical high fashion influences and connecting them the people around them in a cheeky way. It’s paired expertly with a boater, which was worn most often by men.
Narrower silhouettes and spins on traditionally male clothing lent their hands in the blooming acceptability of androgynous wear. Slender, androgynous model Twiggy became a symbol of Quant’s work in a time when homosexuality was on the verge of becoming legal and second-wave feminism was still ahead. With the changing conceptions of sexuality, her designs were a bold indicator of the time.
What’s most appealing about this 1966 woollen jumpsuit as a modern woman is that it easily blends into the sartorial trends of today and would be styled similarly (most likely sans hat). The use of traditional checkered cloth is not lost on viewers in what she deemed the “neo-classical British look.”
Quant’s versatility is evident in the plethora of outfits on display, varying from feminine to androgynous, from professional to fun. What connects them all is the statement they dare to make about the climate of the sixties and the confidence they gave women to claim their place in society.
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